Your newly adopted rescue dog is almost (or already) here! Now what?

Here are my top twelve tips for what to do when your newly adopted shelter or rescue dog joins your family.

1. Keep them feeling safe.

Make your rescue dog’s first days and weeks (even months) low key. Give them time to settle in. Introduce them slowly and gradually to new situations, always making sure they are comfortable and not overwhelmed. For instance, don’t invite all your friends and family over for a party. Instead, invite just one or two people at a time. Create a safe space for your dog where no one will bother them, so they have somewhere to go when they need some space. You’ll also be getting to know your new family member. Learn about dog body language so you can identify when your dog is uncomfortable, worried, anxious, or afraid, and get them out of that situation if so. You can later develop a plan and/or work with a qualified trainer to help change their association from negative to positive.

• ispeakdog.org is one good online resource for information on body language.
• Doggie Language by Lili Chin is great book loaded with illustrations of dog body language.

2. Keep them safe.

The last thing you want is for your newly adopted dog to take off and get lost. Be sure to use a well-secured leash when moving from place to place, and to not let them loose even it’s just from the car to the house. Select a well-fitted harness they cannot slip out of. Two points of attachment can add another layer of security, such as to the harness and collar using two leashes, a leash safety strap or a carabiner. If you have a fenced yard, check that the gates are secure and the fence escape-proof. Create an airlock near exits using baby gates and exercise pens to prevent your dog from slipping outside. In case they do get loose, tags with your contact information and tracking collars (such as GPS/satellite) can help reunite you more quickly.

• Check out Dogkind’s blog with some helpful information on keeping a fearful dog safe and secure.

3. Set them (and you) up for success.

Arrange the environment to prevent rehearsal of things you’d rather they didn’t do. Dog proof so there aren’t items like shoes, remote controls, pens or kids’ toys just sitting there waiting to become new chew toys. Use doors, baby gates or exercise pens to block off areas that you cannot doggy proof. Keep food items out of their reach so they don’t learn that counter surfing pays off. Similarly, keep trash secured where they cannot access it. A little bit of thoughtful planning to prevent problems goes a long way!

• I wrote more about environmental management here and here.
• And here’s a great blog on the topic by Kristi Benson.

4. Be thoughtful about using a crate (or not).

There are so many misconceptions about the use of crates! Most dogs don’t naturally just take to the crate. They must be taught—using an incremental, step-by-step incremental plan—to be comfortable in a crate. And even if you’ve been told your new rescue dog is crate trained, start off on the right foot and introduce them to the crate as though it’s brand new for them. (They may have even had horrible previous experiences with crates.) If you decide to use a crate and work through a crate training plan, don’t use the crate to actually confine them until you’ve worked up to it. You don’t want to undo all your efforts to build your dog’s comfort. Dogs with separation anxiety or isolation distress often really struggle being crated. That said, many dogs do learn to love their crates, and they are safe spaces for some dogs. Crates can be very useful for preventing potty training or other mistakes (see #3 above!), as well as for travel. If you’re going to use a crate, it’s important for your dog to feel comfy in their crate, and they often need help getting there.

• Julie Naismith talks about why she loves and hates crates in this podcast episode.

5. Teach them what to do using rewards-based training.

Teach them where to go potty and what to chew, while preventing them from making mistakes (see point #3). They’ll likely need a refresher in their new environment or they may not have been completely house- or chew-trained before. Basic skills are really useful. The use of rewards-based training makes for an enjoyable activity for you and your dog and doesn’t risk the fallout from the use of aversives and punishment-based methods. Some skills can even save your dog’s life, such as a stellar recall. Fun tricks and enrichment games are great, too!

I love online private and group sessions for newly adopted rescue dogs. You can bond with your dog at home without the overwhelming new environment or scary car ride, while you learn about how dogs learn and positive-reinforcement based training.

• Companion Animal Psychology is a source of excellent information on dog and cat behavior. Click here for a compiled list of posts about dog training, and here for a post on training a new rescue dogs.
• Check out my offerings for basics and tricks!
• Click here for my video on teaching sit.

6. Teach your dog to be comfortable when home alone.

In order to teach them to feel safe when you aren’t around, it’s important for your dog to feel secure in their new home and to avoid scary alone-time experiences. Take time off so you can be home with them. Let them sleep near you or in your bed. Let them follow you around. They do need practice with you being absent to learn to be comfortable when left home alone. Start with simply going to the door, and if they’re comfortable with that, transition to stepping outside the door. From there, gradually build up the amount of time you are outside the door. They learn that you go, they feel safe, and you come back. Set up a camera so you can make sure they really are feeling comfortable while you’re out. For some dogs, this process takes a just matter of days, but others need much longer.

• If your dog is struggling with being home alone, they may benefit from separation anxiety training.
• Here’s a podcast episode by Julie Naismith on helping rescue dogs get over their fear of being home alone.

7. Teach your kids how to interact appropriately with dogs.

Always supervise actively, and when you cannot do that, keep your children separated from the dog. Baby gates and exercise pens can are handy once again! Set up an out-of-the way spot to feed your dog. Don’t let your kids take things away from your dog, or bother them when they’re eating, chewing or resting. Do not let your child pick up, climb on, or hug your dog, or grab their tail or ears. It’s not all about what not to do, though! There are many fun games, including training games, that kids can play with dogs.

• The Family Dog has helpful resources for keeping kids and dogs safe.
• Rescued By Training has a whole series of posts about kids and dogs.

8. Make new things predict good stuff.

Take advantage of your dog’s first experiences with you. Don’t wait for problems to show up. I routinely help dogs change their minds about scary things through behavior consultations. However, fear is tough to overcome. It’s so much easier to create a positive impression from the start. Proactively teach your dog that new objects, sounds, surfaces, people and dogs mean great things for them! Whenever possible break things down to prevent the new thing from being too intense and scary, which could create a long-lasting negative association. For example, the vacuum cleaner is the source of dread for many dogs. Vacuums are clunky and move and make awful noise. Help your dog learn that the vacuum isn’t a terrifying monster by introducing a milder version of the vacuum, followed by a yummy snack. Move the turned-off vacuum slowly for just a few seconds a distance from the dog, then toss them a big piece of cheese. Wait a bit, then repeat. Once your dog brightens up when you move the vacuum again (Yay, cheese is next!), move the vacuum for a big longer. Gradually build up to the real thing. You can introduce your dog to loads of new things in this manner — car rides, blenders, brushing, nail trims, harnesses, new people, dogs on walks, the garbage truck… Start off with an easy-for-your-dog version of whatever the “thing” is and build up from there.

• For dogs who already show discomfort, Companion Animal Psychology has an excellent guide on desensitization and counter-conditioning..

9. Teach your dog to enjoy body handling.

While this could fit in point 8 above, it deserves its own section because so many dogs struggle with body handling—brushing, nail trims, ear cleaning, paw wiping, toothbrushing, veterinary exams. Still, it’s a similar concept. Break the activity down into small increments. Start with whatever your dog can comfortably do already. Make it predict good stuff, like fantastic, yummy foods. Keep a close eye on your dog’s body language for any signs of discomfort, so you can adjust and make the exercise easier. Gradually work up to the full procedure. If this sounds like a lot of work, it’s worth it when it means easier, less stressful vet visits and grooming for the rest of your dog’s life. 

• The Academy for Dog Trainer’s Husbandry Project provides excellent (and free) step-by-step training plans for cooperative care.
• Fresh and Fearless: Basic Grooming Made Easy and Healthy Smiles: At-Home Dental Care for Dogs and Cats are online self-paced courses offered by some of my wonderful colleagues.
• Watch this video on Petting Consent Tests by DogKind.

10. Teach them there’s no need to guard food or objects.

Resource guarding is a dog’s way of saying, “Stay away, that’s mine!” It’s a natural and normal behavior. Even so, you can teach your dog that they don’t need to guard from you, and to instead love if you come near them when they’re eating or when they have a coveted item. Of course, we mostly want to let them enjoy their meals and chews in peace. There’s a lot of bad and outdated advice out there that can cause or exacerbate problems, rather than prevent or help to overcome them. Don’t listen to the bad advice to “test” your dog by sticking your hand in their bowl or taking away their chew. And don’t punish or scold your dog for growling or snapping — these are helpful warning signs. Some simple exercises can go a long way in helping to prevent future problems.

• I write more about guarding in this post, which includes a video of a food bowl bonus exercise, and here as a guest blogger for the Academy for Dog Trainers.
• Upward Hound explains why growling is actually helpful here.
• Read this piece about resource guarding by Companion Animal Psychology.
• Click here for my online self-paced course Happy To Share: Help Prevent Resource Guarding.
• If your dog guards food or objects from you, get in touch — I can help!

11. Meet their exercise and enrichment needs.

You probably know that dogs need physical exercise. But did you know that a leash walk may not be adequate physical exercise? Don’t get me wrong — leash walks are fantastic for dogs who enjoy them! For many dogs, though, walks are more about mental enrichment — scents, sights and sounds. Since mental enrichment is just as important as physical exercise, do encourage your dog to sniff to their heart’s content and enjoy their walks! Provide ample opportunity for mental exercise with work-to-eat and puzzle toys, scent games, chew objects, toys, play, and other games. Enrichment and training games are a great way to keep a senior dog’s mind active. And be sure to provide plenty of rigorous physical exercise for young, energetic dogs through activities like fetch, tug and play with other dogs. 

• Find out how to have a happy walk with your dog in this piece by Zazie Todd.
• Read what Dog Educated has to say about tug here.
• Here’s more on importance of enrichment from Academy for Dog Trainers blog.

Here are several posts about having fun and providing enrichment for your dog:

• Teaching Hide & Seek
• Hide and Seek Games for Indoor Fun
• The Quest for the Perfect Puzzle Toy
• Summertime Blues?
• Yum Yum Yum! Enrichment Through Food Dispensing Toys
• When It Rains All Weekend…
• Mental Enrichment For Post-Op Recovery

12. Enjoy getting to know one another!

Last but certainly not least, savor this time with your newly adopted rescue or shelter dog. Give them time to settle in. Help them thrive in their new life. It’s such a joy to share your life with a canine companion!

• Read my posts We Give You Permission and Client Confessions: How I’m Secretly Ruining My Dog about letting go of outdated notions and so you can enjoy your dog’s dogginess.

I know I likely haven’t answered all of your questions about your newly adopted shelter or rescue dog.

There’s so much more that could be included, such as introducing the new kid to your resident animals. Nevertheless, I hope you found this post helpful. Whether you’d like help with something on this list or something I’ve not mentioned, I’m here to help!

I’d love to help you bring out the best in your dog for a happier life together.