Why bother with crate training?

We humans take it for granted that dogs should naturally be okay with so many things, including being left in a crate. But we should instead assume that it will likely be scary, because for many dogs, being locked into a tiny space and being left alone are inherently scary and can be traumatic. These things do not come naturally.

“Dogs like cozy dens” …If I had a nickel. Yes, some dogs do choose to go into a crate or small space where they can hide and escape something they find scary. For instance, a dog I recently fostered for a weekend would go into a covered crate to nap or if she got spooked, but the door was always left open. It was her choice, and she could exit the crate at any time. And all dogs should have spaces they can retreat to where they will not be bothered by anyone. Choosing to go into a space that you can also choose to exit is much different than being locked into a space.

If using a crate, focus on gentle and gradual crate training.

Many dogs do learn that crates are great if taught in an incremental, gradual way. (I also advocate for dogs to be taught — in a gentle, gradual manner — that it’s okay to be alone. See number 6 here.) Crate training can be a big help with house training, chew training, car travel, as well as recovery from surgery or stays at the vet and groomer. (Here’s a list of some other useful crate situations from Green Dog Training.)

Ideally, when bringing home a new dog or puppy, someone can be home with the dog for at least a week or two. That way, we can take the time to teach the dog to love their crate and to be comfortable being home alone. That might mean taking some time off work, hiring a pet sitter, and/or enlisting friends, family and neighbors to help. I know that probably sounds really challenging, but it’s well worth it to have the best chance of setting our new family members up for success! If you think about it, everything they’ve ever known has suddenly changed. They may never have even lived in a house before, let alone spent time completely by themselves.

Crate training is not just putting a dog in the crate, closing the door and expecting them to get used to it.

It’s teaching the dog to be comfortable in the crate as gradually as needed for that individual dog. It’s observing the dog’s body language to make sure they are comfortable every step of the way. It’s using yummy treats to create positive associations with the crate and to reinforce skills like entering the crate on cue. It’s not actually using the crate to confine your dog until you’ve worked up to it in the training plan. It’s better to go slowly and let your dog set the pace.

Basic overview of crate training

Please check out my training options if you’d like help with crate training.

I use a plan that has three phases. Only move forward when the dog repeatedly shows enthusiasm and comfort. We drop back to previous stages if the dogs shows signs of discomfort or hesitation. Add in-between steps if one step seems easy but the next step seems too hard. Here’s an overview of the plan. In the meantime, don’t actually use the crate as that can undo all of the progress made thus far.

Phase 1: Comfort entering the crate, door open, dog can exit at any time.

Start by making the crate a magical place. Place some cozy blankets or bedding into the crate. Drop treats and chews into the crate throughout the day, when the dog isn’t looking, for the dog to discover. You can even feed meals in the crate — remember, this is with the door open. Once they are checking the crate out often and easily entering the crate, try tossing a treat in while your dog is watching to see if they enter just as easily with you standing near the crate. (Some dogs hesitate to enter the crate with someone near it, especially if they’re worried they’ll be locked in.) When the dog is ready, we start to teach the dog to enter the crate on cue, and then start to add a little bit of duration with the door open.

Phase 2: Comfort with the door being closed.

Next, we introduce the door. This can be a challenging phase for dogs, especially if they’ve had a bad experience with being crated. For some, we start with just touching the door, then giving a treat. For others, we can start by closing the door about halfway, giving a great, then opening the door and allowing them to exit. Build up gradually to a fully closed door.

Phase 3: Comfort with duration with a closed door.

In this final phase, we start to add duration, starting with just a few seconds at a time with you remaining next to your dog in a crate. Build duration gradually, with you hanging out with your dog and dropping treats into the crate frequently at first. We eventually introduce you stepping out of the room for a second or two to start, building up from there, then the same with leaving the house.

Crate Training FAQS

Can’t I just let my dog cry it out? Won’t they get used to it?

It’s not worth the all-too-real risk of making things even worse. This can be traumatic with lasting unwanted consequences. It’s much, much, much, much easier to put the work in on the front end and create positive associations and experiences than it is to try and undo negative associations and bad experiences.

They told me my dog is already crate trained. So I can just crate my dog and leave, right?

I recommend introducing the crate as though it’s brand new to them. Unfortunately, a lot of “crate training” is nothing than more locking a dog in a crate without any regard to the dog’s comfort level. Dogs often need a refresher in new locations, even if they were comfortable in the crate in a prior home. If they were right and the dog was truly comfortable, they’ll breeze through the training quickly this time around. Better to play it safe.

So what do I do in the meantime?

To buy you time to work on crate training, alternative methods of confinement include easy-to-clean, dog-proofed spaces, such as laundry rooms or bathrooms, baby gates or exercise pens. Exercise pens can be configured in various ways. X-pens are great for fencing off areas of the house that you cannot dog proof or to keep your dog in the same area as you, making it much easier to supervise them.

Do all dogs need to be crated?

Nope! (But with a caveat.) Crate training is most helpful with house training. Because of the small size of a crate, dogs are prompted to hold it, which aids in the prevention potty training mistakes. Of course, the crate should be big enough for the dog to comfortable stand, stretch out and turn around. Just not so big that they can potty in one area and nap in another. While potty training can be accomplished without a crate, crating is very helpful to the cause. If a dog is potty trained, but not yet chew trained, the small size of a crate isn’t needed. Dog proof and block off any areas of the house that cannot be dog proofed.

So what about that caveat? It’s wise to teach dogs to be comfortable in a crate even if you won’t be using on a daily basis. A dog may need to be crated at the vet, groomer, in the car or in case of emergency. In those types of situations, it’s best for them to be comfortable with the crate before it’s needed.

Are there dogs who should not be crated?

Crates can be extra stressful and even panic inducing for dogs with separation anxiety or confinement phobia. Crating these dogs can make matters worse. And no dog should be crated for long periods. For instance, an entire work day is a long time and can be broken up by having a pet sitter or neighbor visit.